This weekend is a bank holiday in Spain – a double one, with two (legitimate) days off – today, Friday, and Monday. First, Dia de la Constitucion (6 December), celebrating Spain’s Constitution; then Dia la Concepcion Inmaculada (8 December) – a Sunday, which is carried over to Monday 9 December.
Traditionally, the Christmas buzz gets going after this puente, but in Seville it’s already happening now thanks to a broad range of events – some regular annual ones, and some new. In any case, the Christmas lights are already up, so make sure you make at least one visit in the evening to get the full festive effect.
Here I will list my pick of the markets and other attractions this puente, and in most cases, throughout the Christmas season until Reyes – 5 January.
MARKETS AND FAIRS
I love a good browse – especially when there’s so much variety on offer. You can get all your Christmas presents here – books, handicrafts, food, wine. Chatting to the owner/designer/maker of a piece is all part of the experience.
Convent pastries market in the Alcazar – 6 – 8 December.
Get your Christmas yemas and lardy goodies – mantecados and polvorones – made by nuns from nearby convents. Some are available in vegetarian versions too. An essential part of the seasonal diet for many Spanish.
Antique book market – Plaza Nueva – until 9 December
Great for quirky presents for hispanophiles; as well as books, you can find postcards, prints, maps, posters and comics.
Feria del Belen – Nativity scene market – Avenida de la Constitucion – until 23 December
Come here for figures for your belen (nativity scene) – most homes, offices and shops have their own. Rivers with flowing water, all the complementary figures including the cagon (pooing man), and foodstuffs – mini-fish and legs of jamon (widely available in Jewish Bethlehem in 0AD), to complement Jesus, Mary and Joseph with the animals, shepherds, and three kings.
Christmas market – the Alameda – until 5 January
This market features children’s attractions, ponies, dromedaries, and a Grand Flea Circus. Slightly apprehensive about the animals’ treatment; have yet to see.
Handicrafts market – Plaza Nueva – 13 December – 5 January
Great for unusual Christmas and Reyes presents – stalls mostly belong to designer-makers. Good buys (though less portable) include handmade ceramics and wooden toys.
Gastronomy and Handicrafts of Seville Province Fair – Diputacion de Sevilla – 12- 15, 19-22 December
Find gifts here for foodie friends and family – look out for Ines Rosales tortas de aceite, Colonias de Galeon organic wines from the Sierra Norte, and extra virgin olive oil from Estepa (Oleoestepa) and Carmona (Basilippo).
Independent designers market – Muchomaskemarket – El Arenal – 14-15 December
This two-day event takes place at a co-working space in Cuesta del Rosario 8 (4o) and features 29 stands of fashion, gastronomy and interiors, including recycled materials and cakes. Also workshops – learn how to make baby shoes out of felt, and how to print textiles.
Christmas market with live Nativity Scene – Plaza Encarnacion – until 6 January
Go skating, buy some presents, visit the animals at the Belen Viviente.
SPORT
Whether you’re a wobbler like me, or an elegant glider, skating is fun. And when it’s in such beautiful surroundings as these, even more so. And when it’s followed by a well-earned copita or three with friends – well, that’s a top evening in my book.
Ice rinks – until 6 January
In the Prado de San Sebastian and Plaza Encarnacion. For opening times, see here. The one under the Setas is interesting because it’s ecological synthetic ice, made by local Sevillano company Xtraice.
CULTURE
The programme is less varied at this time of year, as the spotlight falls on seasonal concerts, but there are some star events.
Flamenco – Sara Baras – Fibes – 13 December
The innovative dancer brings her new show, La Pepa, to the Seville Conference Centre. Set in Cadiz city in 1810-1812 – the time of the historic First Constitution and War of Independence against France – it also stars bailaor Jose Serrano. More information: Fibes.
Handel’s Messiah – Maestranza Theatre – 19 and 20 December
The great choral work performed by local amateur choral associations – a “from scratch”. Humming along is positively encouraged. More information: Teatro Maestranza.
Quidam – Cirque du Soleil – Palacio de Deportes San Pablo – 18-22 December
If you’ve never experienced a Cirque du Soleil show, I’d highly recommend this – a unique combination of music, dance, theatre and circus acrobatics. Thrilling and great fun, and worth the hike to San Pablo. More information: Cirque du Soleil.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uc9lUuJQpE&w=560&h=315]
OTHER EVENTS
Finally, two free events/experiences to round off your Christmas visit to Seville, whether it’s a quick visit of a few hours, a weekend break, or you live here and want to try out everything that’s on offer.
Olive Oil Tasting Carts – all over the centre – 5-7, 12-14 December
Nothing to do with Christmas, but a great initiative worth mentioning. All around the centre, from Plaza Encarnacion down to Plaza Juan de Austria, you can find 50 carts each offering four types of EVOO (extra virgin olive oil) to taste; the idea is to introduce people to the delights of distinct varieties. They’re in place from 10.30am to 2.30pm and you can see a list of all the carts’ locations here. I’m a big fan of picual, having seen it being made on a farm in Jaen where I stayed recently; you can also taste smooth arbequina, peppery cornicabra, and fruity hojiblanca. I love this mobile cata idea; you are also given a brochure containing recipes using each type of oil to try at home. I’m tempted by the buñuelos de bacalo.
Mapping – Plaza San Francisco – until 5 December
This fabulous laser show is projected onto the back of the Ayuntamiento building. Dates aren’t 100% confirmed yet, but this year’s show, “El Espiritu de Navidad” (The Spirit of Christmas), will probably kick off on Tuesday 10 December, until Reyes (5 January); last year they were every hour from 6pm to 11 or 12pm. One of the Christmas season’s most popular events, with 700,000 watching the show last year, which won a European Best Event Award. (No, I’ve never heard of them either – no matter. Awards are a Good Thing.) Here’s a taster from last year.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrHuF0Lyheg&w=420&h=315]
What do they do in your town or village at Christmas? Here’s a listing for Granada by Molly.
It looks like you are having a great time 😉
I wish they had lights like that in Regent Street instead of the commercial garbage!
Yes, Christmas is always fun! I thought Stella McCartney had done the Regent Street lights this year – are they awful?
They look like a load of adverts 🙁
Actually I take that back – those were adverts which were up before the Christmas lights – I Googled them and they look very good, as do the ones in Oxford Street 😉
Great post, Fiona. You’ve certainly done your homework. I don’t remember seeing skating rinks in Seville. Either I was too entrenched in Las Tes Mil, or it’s something new in the city. Looks like a lot of fun. The holiday lights are gorgeous
Thanks Susan – the ice rinks are temporary, just for Christmas. I’m not sure if there’s a permanent one anywhere in the city. Yes, the lights are fab, especially the ones in trees, and the Ayuntamiento facade.
Thanks for the news! What can we expect in January? We are planning a 3 week trip to Sevilla during the month. Thanks for your kind attention.
Wow. Plenty to do in Seville.Wish we could pop over and try out some of those pastries and markets
And I wish I could wing it over to you for paella and artisan beer!
I’m not a big fan of Christmas, but I do love the Belen market. Nothing like seeing butchers who actually chop and the Virgin nursing under your tree!
I know, it’s fantastic, isn’t it? I’ve never spotted all those different types of food before, and I loved the brightly-coloured folkloric Latin American belenes. I find something new (to me) to marvel at each year.
Great post, Fiona. So much to see and do, I wouldn’t know where to start!
I know Sue, and the crazy thing is I’ve only mentioned about half of what’s on! I’m doing the Alameda market with the kids at the weekend, and will not be missing the Seville Province food market, as I’m normally not around for that. Plus will definitely take the kids to see the lights and belens sometime – small doses for them, though! How is Christmas up your way?
Great post! Where is the antique book market?
It’s in Plaza Nueva, Robin – added now. Thanks for pointing out that omission – what you get from staying up till silly o’clock to blog!
Hi Fiona, terrific post. Can I use some of the images/info in my blog? (The Spanishoegallery Blog – http://www.spanishoegallery.com)
I’m doing Xmases in different places in Spain right now. Obviously, you and your blog will be fully credited.
Cheers,
Ann
Yes, that’s fine. Can you let me have a link to the post please.
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