Scribbler in Seville

This year, the third Icónica Fest has brought a variety of Latin artists and groups to the spectacular setting of Plaza de España in Seville’s Maria Luisa Park, with Mexico the invited country for 2023.

Big names like Argentina’s Fito Paéz and Bizarrap, who collaborated with Shakira on her revenge song earlier this year, plus Mexican artists Alejandro Fernández, Marco Antonio Solís, have performed … as well as the Mariachi Internacional CHG band.

This magnificent setting, in one of Seville’s most impressive monuments, is particularly apposite for music from South America. Plaza de España was built as part of the Ibero-American Exposición of 1929, when Spain welcomed its former colonies back to Seville to celebrate the Iberian wider family. The semi-circular Plaza de Armas building, with its two “arms”, was designed as an open embrace, so that citizens of the newly independent Latin American countries would all feel part of the same group.

When we think about mariachis (the name refers to the musician, the band, and the type of music), what probably springs to mind is a group of strolling musicians, dressed up in suits and large round hats with pointed crowns, singing and playing instruments, either in the street or at weddings and other lively celebrations.

This group, from Jalisco state in Mexico, home of mariachi bands, was formed in 2019 and has recorded four albums (is that word still used?). Mariachi Internacional CHG, named after the company that created it, consists of 16 musicians: eight violins, 3 trumpets, four guitars – including a guitarrón (large acoustic bass guitar) and a vihuela (small lute-like instrument) – and a harp.

Mariachi music is full of emotion – some songs are melancholy copla-type songs, while other tunes are more up-tempo, such as the canciones rancheras (country songs), with complex multi-layered rhythms and melodies. Like all Mexican music, its origins and influences are a blend of indigenous, European and African. In this case, further musical accompaniment was provided by the Orquesta de Cordoba.

But their appearance was also an important element of the show, with all 16 wearing the same matching traje de charros, the name for the mariachi outfit (charro is a Mexican cowboy). This consists of a suit, in this case black with silver buttons along the outside of the trouser legs, along with cropped jackets and waistcoats. The look was completed with sparkly collars and silver-grey neck bows, as well as sparkly CHG badges (even their belt buckles bore the band’s initials).

The large black hats, sombreros de charro, complete with silver-grey band, stayed at their feet for most of the performance – understandably, since it would be be tricky to play an entire concert wearing such head gear – not to mention in 35-plus degree heat.

The band was joined by two guest singers – Argentina Flamenco and Robin Torres, who provided a pleasing female balance to the exuberant all-male mariachis. The latter wore a spectacularly patterned dress with a huge, dramatic skirt. The sevillana singer sang beautiful, haunting songs including Hijo de la Luna, from her successful homage to 1980s pop group Mecano. Robin’s gentle vocals offered a soft contrast to the polyphonic Mexican musicians (women mariachi bands do exist).

In terms of how this show, and the festival overall, are presented visually, the design of the logo is exquisite, replicating colourful painted azulejos (ceramic tiles) in the Alcazar’s Gothic palace.

As with most big stage shows these days, there was a huge screen at the back of the stage, onto which were projected still and moving images – photos and videos of Mexico, showing its historical (colonial) buildings and vibrant fiestas, as well as pretty designs and photos of the dapper musicians themselves. The monuments helped to provide a cultural context for the music – as well as reminding me of a memorable trip backpacking around Mexico during my university years, in the summer of 1990. Happy times.

This was a glimpse into a whole musical genre about which I know very little. Mariachi music is boisterous, dynamic and full of life – with surprising elements like a harp. This musical genre, so closely associated with Mexico, is a source of great pride for Mexican people throughout the world.